Guide 3 · Centrepieces

Plan the sweet centre of the table

Choose one centrepiece dessert and plan it backwards from the moment it reaches the table. Most of the work can happen days earlier; only the finishing touches belong on the day.

Choosing a centrepiece

Match the dessert to your calendar

The French bûche de Noël imitates the Yule log once burned through the winter nights; a rolled chocolate sponge is its modern form. The British Christmas pudding is traditionally mixed on Stir-up Sunday, the last Sunday before Advent, and steamed again on the day. In Australia and New Zealand, where Christmas falls in summer, a meringue pavlova with fresh fruit is a common choice. Siena's dense panforte and the English trifle are other long-standing options.

Each has a different make-ahead window. A pudding can be made weeks ahead; a pavlova shell, a few days; a yule log sponge, a day. Pick the one that suits the time you actually have.

Photograph of a pavlova topped with whipped cream, strawberries and passion fruit
Inspiration photograph, not a result from this guide.
Make-ahead windows at a glance
DessertMake the baseStore baseFinish
Christmas puddingWeeks aheadCool, dark cupboard, well wrappedRe-steam about 1–2 hours on the day
Pavlova2–3 days aheadAirtight container, room temperatureCream and fruit within an hour of serving
Yule log1 day aheadRolled, wrapped, in the fridgeGanache on the morning
TrifleCustard and sponge 1 day aheadFridgeWhip and add cream on the day
Recipe · Serves 10

Chocolate yule log (bûche de Noël)

Prep30 minBake8–10 minChill1 hr+Oven200°C / 180°C fan / 400°FTin33 × 23 cm Swiss roll

Sponge

  • 4 large eggs
  • 100 g caster sugar, plus extra for dusting
  • 65 g plain flour
  • 35 g cocoa powder

Filling

  • 300 ml double cream
  • 2 tbsp icing sugar

Ganache

  • 200 g dark chocolate, chopped
  • 200 ml double cream

Method

  1. Line the tin with parchment. Whisk eggs and sugar for 5–8 minutes until thick, pale and leaving a ribbon trail.
  2. Sift flour and cocoa over and fold in gently with a large spoon, keeping as much air as possible.
  3. Spread evenly into the tin and bake for 8–10 minutes, until the sponge springs back when lightly pressed.
  4. Turn out onto a sheet of parchment dusted with caster sugar. Peel off the lining and roll up from a short end with the sugared parchment inside. Leave to cool rolled.
  5. For the ganache, heat the cream until steaming, pour over the chocolate, wait 2 minutes, then stir until smooth. Cool until spreadable.
  6. Whip the cream with icing sugar to soft peaks. Unroll the cooled sponge, spread with cream and re-roll without the parchment.
  7. Cut a short diagonal piece from one end and set it against the side as a branch. Cover with ganache and drag a fork along it for bark.
  8. Chill for at least 1 hour. Keep refrigerated until serving.

Technique Rolling the sponge while warm "trains" it into a curve, so it is far less likely to crack when rolled again with filling.

Pavlova notes

A crisp shell, a soft middle

A common ratio is 4 egg whites to 225 g caster sugar, with 1 tsp cornflour and 1 tsp white wine vinegar. Bake low, around 120°C / 100°C fan / 250°F, for about 1 hour 15 minutes, then leave to cool in the switched-off oven to reduce cracking.

Soft-lit 3D render of a pudding basin covered with pleated parchment and foil on a plain backdropPudding notes

Pleat the cover

Fold a pleat into the parchment and foil lid so the pudding has room to rise, and keep the steaming water topped up from a kettle.

Food safety

Cream belongs in the fridge

The USDA advises keeping perishable foods out of the 40–140°F (4–60°C) "danger zone" and not leaving them out for more than two hours. Keep the fridge at 40°F (4°C) or below; the UK FSA recommends 5°C or below.

Food safety

Uncooked egg desserts

Mousses and tiramisu use raw or lightly cooked eggs. The UK FSA says British Lion-stamped eggs are considered safe for vulnerable groups when raw or lightly cooked; elsewhere, use pasteurised eggs for pregnant, very young, elderly or immunocompromised guests.

Serving

Flaming the pudding

If you flame a pudding with warmed brandy, clear the table area, keep decorations away, and never pour from the bottle near a flame.

Troubleshooting

Rescue notes for the centrepiece

My yule log cracked when I rolled it

It was over-baked or rolled after cooling. Cracks disappear under ganache bark, so carry on; next time, take it out as soon as it springs back.

My pavlova is weeping syrup

The sugar may not have dissolved. Add it a spoonful at a time and rub a little meringue between your fingers; it should feel smooth, not gritty.

My ganache split and looks greasy

It got too hot. Whisk in a tablespoon of warm milk or cream at a time until it comes back together.

The whipped cream turned grainy

It was over-whipped. Gently fold in a few spoonfuls of unwhipped cream to smooth it.

Next in the sequence: bake ahead without losing the details.